(The first part of this report ';Trip Report on Three Weeks in Laos'; was posted on the Luang Prabang forum earlier)
The 9 am mini-van finally set off for Van Vieng at 10.05am after the usual delays in picking up stragglers, changing mini-buses and securing back packs on the roof, a task that was a huge source of amusement to the several men loading the van. Cost was 40,000 Kip p.p.
Contrary to Forum advice, no one suffered car sickness on this journey through some beautiful but incredibly mountainous country. It finally ended at 4.45 pm but some of the memories will last a life time! The magnificent lime stone karst terrain; the manic horn assisted drive through villages where the narrow road seemed to be the place of choice for cattle or pigs, and always a variety of fowl; and our unusual driver.
Aside from his driving performance, he left the van on two occasions for a rest/drink without a word to the passengers. In fact his only form of communication was a smile to every question, sometimes with an added shrug, despite angry words from an infuriated German couple and strong words of advice on customer relations from an annoyed British senior!
We contemplated staying at Elephant Crossing (Lonely Planet%26#39;s pick) but were put off by the high concrete box style of architecture and the lack of any imaginative landscaping. We chose the low style garden setting of the Thavonsouk Resort, next door and down by the river and paid 220,000 Kip. Not the best of rooms but clean. From their open style restaurant the views across the river to the dramatic karsts were exceptional. Here we spent a couple of hours sipping Beerlao and calming the spirit of our new friend, Martin, the previously annoyed Brit., and joined him at the breakfast table to watch the sun rise over the mountains the next morning.
Despite a studied walk around the centre our choice of eating place proved quite forgettable. In the morning we spent a few hours exploring the town before boarding the VIP bus for Vientiane at 1 pm. Aside from the amazing karst landscape we found little to recommend V.V. Basic restaurants and plenty of bars invariably set up to watch TV from a reclining position! Yes! Re-runs of Friends are still playing!
The air conditioned and comfortable bus moved out of the bus station on time but became bogged to the rear axle on the verge of the highway! We are kept amused for an hour by the antics of about 10 station staff and drivers and several failed attempts to free the bus. It is eventually hauled on to the road by TWO other buses in convoy. After an otherwise uneventful and comfy ride we arrived in the peaceful capitol of Laos.
We loved the atmosphere, accessibility and the calm pace of the city. I can鈥檛 recall another city of 250,000 people that appears so relaxed and is such a complete contrast to the hustle of activity and urgency that we regard as a normal part of a developing urban environment. There are signs of considerable renovation and construction activity all round the city but its people appear unperturbed and good manners retained.
I would like to hear from others more experienced in the Lao culture. We have listened to tourists complaining about the lack of infrastructure, the need to modernise, or the absence of tourism know and customer awareness. Will the Lao people be able to pick up on these areas while retaining their unique lifestyle?
First night was spent at Villa Manly and, like the city itself, we consider it would be the ideal venue to re-charge before tackling Bangkok, certainly the best choice for any one wanting to relax in a quiet area away from the centre of activity and prepared to pay a little more. The French Villa, priced up near US$ 60 a double, is tastefully furnished and decorated and set in a large garden with pool.
But it is about 2 Km. away from the centre and we chose to move to Mali Namphu Guest House which is next to Nam Phu in the very centre and in walking distance of the main attractions and restaurants. At only US$18, spotless and including breakfast in the pleasant courtyard, we figured the savings would justify our pursuit of fine food establishments of which the city has many! Those most enjoyed were: -
Kua Lao served the best Lao food ever. Three courses, coffee and a couple of glasses of wine each, for US$30 (a chicken dish in banana leaves, prawns and a sauce wrapped in a fine crepe, egg salad, and banana flambeau - using lao-lao spirit.
Second day we met up with Martin again and had dinner at LA Terrasse. Superb duck!
A change to Italian at La Gondola ( a salad, two pasta dishes, coffee and a bottle of red Chile wine for US$30) Great service and food which was markedly better than at the much vaunted L%26#39;Opera.
Le Cote D%26#39;Azur was our Lao farewell dinner and worth far more than the 419,000 Kip (US$48.80) Have both in mind because I used my remaining Kip and credit card for the balance. We chose a goat cheese salad, rabbit with fresh herbs, and duck breast with orange sauce, washed down with a bottle of Bordeaux Malbec/Cab.
There were many good bakeries, coffee and more casual food outlets along the river side, where a great meal generally cost no more than US$6. Several good wine shops but the best was Vins de France a cellar in Th. Samsenthai just round the corner from the Nam Phua. Here we ran in to the two American guys we had met up north. A great excuse to sample some of their wide range of wine available by the glass.
Our VIP bus trip to the Border, through Immigration and on to Udon Thani, was uneventful and followed the clear directions provided on this Forum.
Trip Report on Three Weeks in Laos. (Part 2 %26ndash; Vientiane)I have really enjoyed your report posts.
Thanks for taking the time.
Trip Report on Three Weeks in Laos. (Part 2 %26ndash; Vientiane)Nice report.
A couple of corrections - Vientiane has 600,000 people, not 250,000.
I don%26#39;t know what you ate at Kua Lao, but I have never spent $30.00. Mind you, you probably didn%26#39;t know you can bring your own wine. Same at virtually every restaurant in Vte including all the ones you mentioned. Usually a $3.00 corkage, sometimes none.
The best and cheapest wineshop by far is Phonesavanh Import at Thatdam. About 25% cheaper than Vins de France with a bigger range.
Agree with you about La Terasse; it is my local. However you didn%26#39;t mention their excellent deserts which range from 15k to 25k kip.
Was Villa Manoly really $60? It was 30 for a double room last week when I had two friends stay there.
Hi Ancient Aussie,
Enjoyed reading your report.
We are staying in Vientiane for 3 nights , do you think 2 full days is enough time to have a good look around?
Cheers,
Stewie.
Thank you very much for this report - it%26#39;s very informative...but I%26#39;m having a wee freak out...I was about to go on Skype to call the Villa Manoly to book two rooms thinking it was $30 a night....I%26#39;m as curisous as Rufuscat....is it really $60 a night now???
Thank you for your help.
Thank-you for writing such detailed reports. I really enjoy reading them. In a few weeks, I%26#39;ll be taking my 2 kids to L.P., but now wished that I also planned to go to Vientiane after reading your experiences there. The last time I visited Vientiane was in 1996 and now can%26#39;t wait to go back to visit.
I agree with all the other posters - thanks so much for your trip report! Although I%26#39;m only in the planning stages for our trip to Laos next year, your report has gotten me even more excited and inspired. Can%26#39;t wait!!
nice to see someone else sample the french and italian dining in Vientiane , I think its very good, callao
Thank you everyone who has commented.Rufuscat,I%26#39;m sure you will be correct on the population which makes my comments about the calmness of the city all the more remarkable. I took the figure from Lonely Planet, 6th. Edition 2007. Yes, we did spend US$30 at Kua Lao but the largest part was on wine,and I did not take your earlier advice regarding BYO. The cost of a night at Villa Manoly remains a mystery. I was relying on partners notes and on reflection she now thinks it was about US$40. When she receives her credit card I will post if this is not right. (my only recollection was that it was more than the US$30 mentioned in Lonely Planet)Even at $40 i maintain that it is a great choice with the reservations made in the original report.
Stewieperth, 2 days is enough to get around the sights, but to appreciate this city I think you need a little time to relax,observe and savour.
Yes it is a quiet place to live, though driving down Lane Xang Ave at 5.00pm dodging motorcyclyes you wouldn%26#39;t think so. It is nice that someone else apreciates the town for what it is. I often read that people want to bypass Vte. Its a shame - for them.
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