Trip Report on Three Weeks in Laos. (Part 1- Luang Prabang)

(A second part of this report relates to Vientiane and will be posted on that Forum)

After Hanoi the change of pace was significant but much appreciated. Greeted by smiling officials at the airport and about 30 Visas on Arrival were processed in as many minutes! You do need US$. ($30 for me an Australian, and $35 for my British partner) Experienced no difficulty in getting Kip from the ATM and negotiated a Jumbo ride in to town - 45,000 Kip for two but four of us rode for 60,000, and the driver was more than happy for us to check out 3 or 4 accommodation prospects.

Initially we settled for the Villa Sokxai, recommended by many on this and Forum, but the ';VIP'; room at US$30 was overrated and the Guest House has seen better days. It was clean and had a balcony over the main thoroughfare. After a stroll round town the next day we moved to Thana Boun Guest House right in the middle of the main street with sparkling new rooms well out the back of the shop front which is a newly set up Internet Cafe. The service and facilities were excellent, it was very quiet and at US$19 this was great value and very convenient.

Perhaps some would prefer a river view but we had plenty of time to take in the views during walks and food stops. As the establishment had just opened, I don%26#39;t expect this price will last too long!

We found L.P. a wonderful place to unwind, the town fairly flat and easy to explore on foot, and the restaurants, bakeries and wine outlets all very tempting.

Wonderful dinner and atmosphere at the Three Nagus Restaurant, where we indulged ourselves “because it was our first night” so I wont mention the bill although it was still about half that of an equivalent meal in Australia. A strong favourite of the less expensive venues was Tum Tum Bamboo in the main street where we had a traditional Lao meal, crispy grilled fish with ginger and fried chicken in lemon grass, washed down with a French chardonnay, (140,000 Kip - food representing half the cost) JoMa and Restaurant Luang Prabang Bakery were our favourites for lunch and the odd snack! At least two good wine bottle shops in main street where you can enjoy an adequate range of wine by the glass in a relaxed atmosphere, from 18,000 to 40,000 Kip.

Despite many warnings about lack of ATMs we followed our usual practice of carrying very few US$ for emergency and using the ATM for withdrawals in local currency) and managed with just a couple of ';moments';. There is a machine at the airport and two in the main street; one down near JoMa and the other right in the centre near all the restaurants and Travel Agencies. These two were out of action about half the time but seemed to be operational most mornings.

During first three day L.P. stop over, we visited the Royal Palace Museum, to explore the Kings%26#39; residence and gain some knowledge, particularly about the reigns of the last three Kings ending in 1975.We climbed to the top of MT. Phousi to gain some wonderful views of the surrounding country and river, and leisurely visited most of the city sites recommended, including major temples, the Caves and Waterfalls.

The highlight of our trip was the journey by mini bus up to Nong Khiaw on the Nam Ou river, then boat to Muang Ngoi and returning by boat to L.P. after 4 days away. (Some wise person suggested that this was a far more rewarding and less tiresome adventure than taking the slow boat between L.P. and Huay Xai, and we are so glad that the idea prevailed!) The mini was dilapidated, late for the pick-up and delayed for several reasons on the way to Nong Khiaw. (Quite another story but we needed to learn, as we soon did, that Lao people have different priorities and their take on what is important in life can be very different)

The country and the mountains were spectacular, as we passed through villages of bamboo huts sitting on stalks above free range chooks and ducks which showed remarkable skills in crossing the road at will! The dogs were more commanding and only reluctantly moved off their dry spot in the centre of the muddy ';highway'; in the face of our tooting, smoke belching mini van.

At N.K. the scenery was breath-taking with spectacular, sharp pointed limestone mountains rising up from the very edge of the river. The highlight of our highlight was the Non Kiau Riverside Hotel and Restaurant, a truly magical place to stay! Individual self contained bamboo huts perched high above the river bank with a panorama of river and mountains surrounding a large open veranda. A huge ';Four Poster'; double bed with mosquito net and large ensuite, US$25 included breakfast. The lunch of Bamboo and vegetable soup (lemon grass and green chilly) and Morning Glory in fish sauce (skinny beans, spring onions, garlic and chopped cashews) with the inevitable bottle or three of Beerlao, while watching activity on the river below.

That night electricity went off at 5 pm due to tree damage during a storm and the village was lit up with candle light. Have decided it is impossible to explain how we met and communicated with a fisherman on the bank or how we found ourselves at his family’s simple restaurant under a very basic shelter near the rivers edge. Dinner was memorable! Our “host” ordered an amazing variety of simple food, after which he reluctantly declared our share was 20,000 Kip. I felt that I had drunk more lao-lao than that and fortunately was able to come to an arrangement with his much more practical wife!

The village is very basic but the scenery magnificent and the people so easy to warm to if you are prepared to make an effort to understand their laid back nature. They don’t seem to display a lot of passion, but it is too easy to simply dismiss them as “smiling because they’re happy”

One hour on the boat to Muang Ngoi. (20,000 Kip pax.) No other option but not to be missed! We shared the long boat with a dozen happy locals and one very boisterous goat. Seems that yesterday’s storm had deterred any tourists from taking this trip. M.N. was certainly muddy but it%26#39;s two dirt streets soon dried out and it was easy to dodge the slippery pools of red mud, shared with only pedestrians, chickens and a dog or two. All accommodation here is basic.

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We chose the bamboo huts at Nicko’s Place because the green roofs stood out as we approached up the river!! (40,000 Kip a double) Cold water, a suspect mattress and screw the light bulb to turn it on. Compensation was a free Beerlao taken in the hammocks on the small balcony with a wonderful view of a setting sun over the river and the happy chat of a family fishing across the other side.

After an invigorating shower and some heavy duty pancakes for breakfast, we did a little exploring and a lot of gazing at the mountains. The return journey was enjoyable but we would recommend that road transport be taken from Nong Kiaw to L.P. if time is short.

Back in L.P. there are more people around and at the wonderful night market bargaining is a little more enthusiastic but no hard sell and still more a friendly banter. Some very good examples of Hmong blankets, silver artistry and more. Incredibly cheap and your dealing with the originator that often has spent all day travelling to this venue, and putting your currency directly in to the local economy. (You have to feel good about the experience!)

We spent most of our last day in L.P. with a lovely Lao lady and two teachers from Missouri, USA. Dinner at the Blue lagoon Cafe. Superb French onion soup, fish tom yum, beef and onion stew, and a nice carafe of house wine in a beautiful courtyard setting at a cost of US$33 for food for two and drinks all round. The Swiss owner acknowledged our compliments by joining us and providing a complementary round of drinks.

The last leg of our Laos journey to Van Vieng and Vientiane is covered in a separate posting to follow.

Trip Report on Three Weeks in Laos. (Part 1- Luang Prabang)

Hi Ancient Aussie,

Thank you for a fabulous trip report with lots of information.

Sounds like you had lots of with and the scenery sounds fantastic.

We are planning to spend 5 nights in Luang Prabang , apart from using the ATM%26#39;s are there any banks or money changers there to exchange Aussie dollars?

Would love to hire a car with driver and explore the surrounding areas, any tips on what to see an a day trip and where would I hire the car with driver from?

Where did you change your Kip back to Aussie dollars ?

Cheers,

Stewie.

Trip Report on Three Weeks in Laos. (Part 1- Luang Prabang)

Hi Ancient Aussie,

Villa Sokxai is among my options, so am curious to know why you checked out of there.

Maybe Villa Sokxai 2 is better?

And can you please tell me more about Thana Boun. Were the rooms large? Is it air conditioned?

Do you have their contact info? Can%26#39;t seem to find it on the Web.

Many thanks!

A few more comments on matters raised. Sorry for delay as we have been away for the weekend.

Stewieperth,we had no trouble exchanging AU$ at the airport and at two changers in the main street close to ThanaBoun Guest House (see address later). The rates were as good as those offered later in Vientaine. We didn%26#39;t change any Kip!! My No.1 rule any where in Asia is spend all the local currency before you leave as the rate, if any, is always very poor!

I don%26#39;t have any experience in hiring a car in L.P. but there are several Travel Agents in the main street who are competitive and organise the hire of mini buses etc and I%26#39;m sure they could help. We used All Lao Travel (Just 50 metrs along from ThanaBoun and surrounded by others) to book a couple of mini bus trips after a less than satisfactory experience with another smaller operator on the other side of the road.

Erniecat, Thanaboun Guest House contact information is:-

48/3 Xiangmuan Village

Sisavangvong Street

Luang Prabang, Laos

Tel/Fax (856-71) 260606

They explained that they were not yet on the web because they were new. The main reson we chose them was like to be in the centre of town and they were very central and new. All the Travel Agents and most retaurants are in the same block. Their rooms were of medium size, ensuite, aircon and all the little touches like haidryer, crisp linen and shampoo.

On the other hand villa Sokxai did not measure up to the comments made on the Forum. Spacy rooms but a little warn, a noisy building site at the side and rear, and take it or leave it attitude. There was a small veranda overlooking the main street but nothing but a Wat to look at. It is about a kilometre away from the centre of activity.

If you don%26#39;t fancy the shop front location of the Thanaboun (and I stress that the rooms are way out back) there were better options than the V.S. in the opposite direction from the centre, down the side street along side JoMa Bakery and towards the river.

This should make sense when you lok at the Lonely Planet map!

Regarding sites to visit round Luang Prabang, I have little to add to other Forum postings. We enjoyed the waterfalls and Pak Ou Caves and there were some interesting Wats acroos the river in Ban Xieng Maen, but all of these were easily reached by river boat or cycle and hardly warrented the hire of a car/driver. The occasional hire of a jumbo or miniruck seemed a better option when road transport was needed.

AncientAussie, we just stayed 4 nights at ThanaBoun Guesthouse from 1st to 4th of July. Did you see me there?:D Very good location, clean room, new furnitures, good enough but not excellent service. Only one small complaint: they did not allow a late check-out.

Parkhopper, we must have crossed paths. Yea-the owner was a bit preoccupied withthe ';place'; rather than the people but the yough guy was good. We didn%26#39;t need a late check out (I was the Grey head with the young wife.)Nothing like 23 years age difference to keep you moving!!